For the great maestro Pablo Picasso, Munich was the undisputed centre of Bohemian life; a refuge for artists and literary types, offering freedoms that the other great capitals of Europe, at the time, could not. Such was Munich’s pull that Picasso once declared, “You couldn't seriously study art in Paris or Madrid, but only in "Munick", because art is free here!"
Maxvorstadt, the district that once captivated Picasso, remains Munich’s cultural pulse. It weaves together over 5,000 years of art history and intellectual pursuit, whilst continuing to attract thinkers and creatives of every sort.
Situated just north of Munich’s Old Town, Maxvorstadt’s origins are rooted in early 19th-century urban expansion, led by King Maximilian I Joseph of Bavaria. His vision, along with the guidance of landscape architect Friedrich Ludwig von Sckell – founder of the English Garden – transformed this area into a symbol of progressive urban planning. It was Maximilian's successor, Ludwig I, however, who truly shaped Maxvorstadt as we know it, seeking to compete with Paris and other cultural capitals by nurturing Munich’s artistic renaissance.
A magnet for artists and writers throughout the 20th century, from the playwright and poet Berthold Brecht to Expressionist painter Franz Marc, countless creative minds have drawn inspiration from these streets. Today, Maxvorstadt’s Kunstareal, or museum quarter, offers a journey through time and civilisations, with 18 museums and over 40 galleries gathered in a mere 500-by-500-metre area.
One could visit a hundred times and still encounter something new, but for those who are perhaps short on time, the Glyptothek is a particular highlight, first commissioned by Ludwig I as an ardent admirer of ancient Greece. Meanwhile, the Alte Pinakothek, established in 1836 and one of the oldest galleries in the world, houses masterpieces from the 14th to 18th centuries, from Raphael to Rembrandt. The neighbouring Brandhorst Museum holds over 1,200 contemporary works, including pieces by Gerhard Richter and Jeff Koons. Opened in 2009, it reflects Munich’s evolving artistic DNA, embracing modernity while honouring its past. For those interested in history beyond art, the NS-Dokumentationszentrum invites an examination of the role Munich once played in the rise of National Socialism, now situated within the former Nazi party headquarters.
A day spent roaming Maxvorstadt’s cultural treasures calls for refreshment, and in true Bohemian tradition, this neighbourhood’s cafés and restaurants are as much a part of its artistic soul as the galleries themselves. The Schelling-Salon, a favourite haunt for students and intellectuals alike, retains the charm of a bygone era. With its original late 19th-century décor, this Viennese-style café is a reminder of the district’s storied past. Or perhaps call in at James T. Hunt for cocktail hour, or watch the sunset from its outside tables.
Maxvorstadt is a celebration of Munich’s ever-curious character. A work of art unto itself, an open gallery for those who wish to explore. After a day of wandering, The Charles Hotel offers comfort and elegance to match the district’s timeless appeal.
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