Greenstraight Scallops
Greenstraight Scallops - the only company in the UK to harvest wild scallops through freediving - promises just this. We caught its director, James Kirkaldy, in a rare moment on dry land to ask him to share more about the sustainable fishing practices he uses.
Freediving is one of the purest ways to explore the ocean. No air tanks, no clever equipment; just a big pair of fins and falling through the water to the seafloor at 50 or 60 ft. A dive begins by lying relaxed on the surface of the water, before taking a deep breath and duck-diving. The first few fin kicks take us to around a third of the target depth. At that point we free-fall for approximately 10 seconds, arriving in a rich world populated by sea sponges, soft corals, seaweed, fish, and of course, scallops. Selecting the most suitable scallops, we return to the surface, place them into floating baskets, and dive again. As our scallops are dived to order, this process is repeated until there are just enough gathered; no more than we need.
I have been snorkelling, and later free diving, since I was six. Most of my adult life was spent in New Zealand, with leisure time spent spearfishing and gathering seafood for my family. In New Zealand, some forms of seafood, such as Paul (abalone) and kina (sea urchins), can only be gathered by freediving. Returning to the UK, a friend introduced me to South Devon’s underwater world and I discovered how rich the sea was here. Over time, I learnt to catch lobsters, spider and brown crab, and table fish.
It was on a spearfishing mission targeting plaice that I first encountered Atlantic King Scallops. Instead of coming up from a dive with a nice fat plaice, I emerged with a handful of scallops. After several dives, I realised they were in abundance. I learnt that, because it’s not seen as commercially viable, there were no commercial freedivers here. So, towards the end of the Covid-19 restrictions, I purchased a small commercial fishing boat and set up the most sustainable wild scallop harvesting operation in the UK.
I run my fishing boat out of Dartmouth, Devon, and source my scallops a 2-hour boat trip away, in Start Bay. The east facing bays and harbours of Dorset, South Devon and Cornwall provide the ideal environment for amazing scallops; providing protection from the prevailing west winds and swells while exposing the scallops to the high current flow as the English Channel water rushes into the Atlantic, and is replaced by cool, nutrient rich Atlantic waters.
Approximately 98% of scallops are landed through dredging - the equivalent of dropping an enormous bulldozer blade and scraping it across the seabed as far as the eye can see. In locations such as Lyme Bay in Dorset, a swim underwater shows a clear line between an underwater forest of lush vegetation and sea life, alongside a muddy desert where all commercially viable scallops have been harvested. The by-catch of this process is significant, and the damage from ploughing the seabed means it can struggle to regenerate.
Leading restaurants increasingly source hand dived scallops instead. However, although their scuba divers hand pick from the seabed with no disruption or bycatch, they tend to target whole areas and can easily clear them of mature scallops in a short time, which presents ecological issues.
Freediving is the best method of ocean conservation while sourcing the tastiest organic shellfish. The pure nature of being in this deep-water column with the moving current makes it almost impossible to hit the same spot twice. Gathering our catch on a single breath, we never clear an area. Using a small fishing boat and back-to-basics processes minimises our environmental impact and manages the resource so it can regenerate.
There is no purer way to source scallops - picked to order, in a time where we’re more aware of the quality, sustainability, and provenance of our food than ever. What makes the quality of our scallops unique is not just how they're caught, but how they're handled. Kept in the water until the very last minute, they emerge for the first time when we arrive at the dock, where they are transferred into coolers, surrounded by fresh, chilled seaweed. At the depot, they are repacked in chilled seaweed into waxed cardboard boxes and shipped in refrigerated transport, arriving completely fresh and stress free, often still clacking away, leading to a transformative culinary experience.
Our Suppliers
At Brown's Hotel, we strive to use local and artisanal suppliers wherever possible. We value the collaborative ways in which they work with us, an extension of our team, teaching and learning about provenance and process, and providing the hotel with some of the most excellent produce available.
In the heart of London’s elegant Mayfair, Brown’s Hotel is an iconic luxury hotel where history and 21st century sophistication come together.
In the heart of London’s elegant Mayfair, Brown’s Hotel is an iconic luxury hotel where history and 21st century sophistication come together.
In the heart of London’s elegant Mayfair, Brown’s Hotel is an iconic luxury hotel where history and 21st century sophistication come together.
